Parquetry restoration brings an existing parquetry, herringbone or block floor back into good condition by re-gluing loose blocks, replacing missing or damaged blocks where matching timber is available, then sanding and refinishing the whole floor. Because the grain runs in several directions, parquetry needs a slower, more careful sanding approach than straight boards. The outcome depends on the blocks' remaining thickness, how they are fixed and the condition of the subfloor below.
Design Timber Flooring is a mobile, owner-operated business working across Greater Sydney. Jimmy inspects the parquetry in person, checks how the blocks are fixed and how much timber is left, and explains what restoration is realistic before any work starts. This page covers restoring existing parquetry; our main floor sanding and polishing service covers sanding and refinishing more generally, and new patterned floors are covered on our herringbone and chevron flooring page.
What parquetry restoration involves
Many Sydney homes and apartment buildings from the mid twentieth century have parquetry floors, often hidden under carpet or vinyl for decades. Common patterns include herringbone, basket weave and simple block layouts. Restoring them usually combines three kinds of work:
- Repairs. Re-gluing loose or lifting blocks, and replacing missing, broken or badly stained ones.
- Sanding. Removing the old finish, adhesive residue and surface wear, then levelling the blocks.
- Refinishing. Applying new protective coats, and stain if a colour change is wanted.
Common problems and possible approaches
| Problem | What you might notice | Possible approach |
|---|---|---|
| Loose blocks | Hollow sound underfoot, blocks rock or click | Lift, clean the old adhesive, re-glue |
| Missing blocks | Gaps in the pattern, often near doors or old walls | Replace with matching timber where available |
| Damaged or stained blocks | Cracks, burns, deep water or pet stains | Replace individual blocks, or sand where the damage is shallow |
| Old adhesive or paint on the surface | Black or grey marks, especially after carpet removal | Sanding, with an asbestos caution for some old adhesives |
| Uneven blocks | Edges catch the light, some blocks sit higher | Re-gluing, then careful levelling during sanding |
| Worn or failed finish | Dull, grey traffic paths, peeling finish | Full sand and refinish |
When restoration suits, and when it does not
Restoration usually makes sense when:
- Most blocks are firmly bonded and in reasonable condition.
- The blocks have enough timber left above the tongue or fixing to sand.
- Missing or damaged blocks are limited to small areas.
- The subfloor beneath is dry and stable.
It may not suit, or needs a different conversation, when:
- Large areas of blocks have lost their bond, often because of moisture or a failing subfloor.
- The blocks have been sanded so often that little timber remains.
- There is ongoing moisture in the slab or subfloor.
- Many blocks are missing and matching timber cannot be found.
- The floor is a thin parquet overlay that cannot take a full sand.
In those cases, partial relaying or a new floor may be the more lasting option. Our guide on whether to sand and polish or replace floorboards explains how that decision is weighed.
Replacing missing blocks
Matching parquetry is often the hardest part of a restoration. Older floors were laid in species and sizes that may no longer be common, and the existing blocks have aged and changed colour over many years.
Replacement blocks may come from spare blocks left in the home, blocks carefully recovered from a less visible area such as a wardrobe, or new timber cut to the same dimensions. Matching depends on the species, size, thickness and profile being available, and new blocks may look different to aged ones even after sanding and coating. We explain the likely result before work starts and will not promise an invisible repair. Our guide to matching existing hardwood floorboards covers the same principles for straight boards, and floorboard replacement explains how repairs are blended.
Sanding parquetry
Straight boards are sanded along the grain. Parquetry has grain running in different directions, so every pass crosses some blocks against the grain. That makes sanding marks more likely and means parquetry needs:
- A careful sequence of grits and directions, rather than racing to a finish.
- Thorough fine sanding to remove cross-grain scratches before coating.
- Close attention at borders, edges and around fixed joinery.
- Inspection under good light between stages.
Because parquetry blocks can be thinner than standard boards, the amount of timber removed is watched closely throughout. If you want a colour change, see our page on floor staining, as stain tends to highlight any sanding marks left in cross-grain blocks.
An asbestos caution
Some older parquetry was laid with bitumen-based or other adhesives, and older floors may have had vinyl, underlay or adhesive laid over them. Some of these materials can contain asbestos. If there is any chance of asbestos in old adhesives or coverings, the material should be tested before it is disturbed, and any asbestos-containing material removed by a licensed asbestos removalist before sanding starts.
How Jimmy assesses parquetry
On site, Jimmy will:
- Walk the floor and tap blocks to find loose or hollow areas.
- Identify the pattern, block size and, where possible, the species.
- Check the thickness of blocks where it can be seen, such as at floor edges or vents.
- Look for missing or damaged blocks and any spare blocks you may have.
- Look for adhesive residue, old coverings and signs of moisture in the slab or subfloor.
- Discuss the finish and colour you want and what is realistic for the floor.
Where moisture is behind loose blocks, the cause needs to be found first. Our pages on water-damaged floorboards and subfloor preparation explain how moisture and subfloor issues are dealt with.
The restoration process
- Assessment. The floor is inspected, loose and missing blocks are mapped, and the scope is written into a quote.
- Removal of coverings. Old carpet, underlay or other coverings are lifted, after asbestos testing where relevant.
- Repairs. Loose blocks are lifted, cleaned and re-glued, and missing or damaged blocks replaced.
- Curing. Adhesive is left to cure before sanding.
- Sanding. The floor is sanded through a careful sequence of grits, with edges and borders detailed.
- Staining, if chosen. Samples are tested on the floor first.
- Coating. Protective coats are applied, with drying time between coats.
- Handover. You receive guidance on curing, furniture and ongoing care.
What affects timing
There is no fixed duration for a parquetry restoration. It depends on:
- How many blocks need re-gluing or replacing, and how long matching timber takes to find.
- Adhesive curing time after repairs.
- The size of the floor, the pattern and the amount of detailed edge work.
- Whether stain is used, and drying time for each coat.
- Removal of old coverings, and any asbestos testing or licensed removal needed first.
Preparing for parquetry restoration
- Look for any spare blocks in garages, sheds or cupboards and keep them for the assessment.
- Tell us what you know about the floor's history, coverings and any past leaks.
- If old adhesives or coverings may contain asbestos, arrange testing before removal.
- Clear furniture from the rooms and plan access around drying times.
- Arrange for pets and children to stay out of the area.
Parquetry restoration checklist
- Loose and hollow blocks mapped
- Missing or damaged blocks counted
- Spare or matching blocks located
- Block thickness checked where visible
- Moisture source ruled out or resolved
- Asbestos testing done where old adhesives or coverings are present
- Colour and finish chosen, with samples if staining
Parquetry across Sydney
Jimmy restores parquetry and herringbone in homes and apartments across Greater Sydney, including older apartment blocks and post-war houses where parquetry is often found under carpet. If you are lifting carpet to see what is underneath, our guide to replacing carpet with timber is a useful first read, and herringbone versus chevron flooring explains the patterns.
Frequently asked questions
Can old parquetry be sanded and polished?
Usually, if the blocks are firmly bonded and have enough timber left. Loose or missing blocks are repaired first, then the floor is sanded and refinished. Jimmy checks block condition and thickness on site.
Can loose parquetry blocks be fixed?
Often, yes. Loose blocks can be lifted, cleaned of old adhesive and re-glued. If many blocks are loose, the cause, often moisture or a subfloor issue, needs to be found first.
Can you replace missing parquetry blocks?
Where matching timber is available, missing blocks can be replaced with spare blocks, blocks recovered from a hidden area or new timber cut to size. New blocks may still look different to aged ones after finishing.
Why is parquetry harder to sand than normal floorboards?
The grain runs in different directions, so sanding crosses some blocks against the grain. That needs a careful sequence of grits and thorough fine sanding to avoid visible marks.
Can parquetry be stained a different colour?
Yes, once sanded to bare timber. Stain can highlight sanding marks and colour differences between blocks, so samples on the floor are tested first.
Is there asbestos in old parquetry adhesive?
Some older adhesives and coverings can contain asbestos. If there is any chance, have the material tested before it is disturbed. Asbestos-containing material must be removed by a licensed removalist.
Is it worth restoring parquetry or should I replace it?
If most blocks are sound and have timber to sand, restoration often makes sense. Widespread loose blocks, ongoing moisture or very worn blocks may point to relaying or a new floor. We explain the options after the assessment.
Show us your parquetry
Send photos of the floor, including any loose or missing blocks, and your suburb through our online quote form, or call Jimmy on 0404 906 432 to book a free on-site look.