Timber Flooring Questions, Answered

Timing depends on the area, preparation, selected system and any on-site finishing. We discuss a project-specific programme and return-to-use instructions before work begins.

Either works. We have great pricing through trusted Australian suppliers, but we're also happy to install timber you've already purchased.

Both offer a real timber surface. The suitable construction and fixing system depend on the subfloor, use and product specification. We compare the options during the site assessment.

Sometimes. We assess the existing surface, moisture, flatness, finished height and the selected product’s permitted installation system before recommending an approach.

We use modern vacuum-assisted sanding machines that capture the vast majority of dust at the source. You'll be amazed how clean we leave the site.

For most Sydney homes we recommend a quality water-based polyurethane in matte or satin, it's tough, low-odour and looks natural. We also offer hard-wax oil for a softer, more European feel.

Follow the written handover instructions for your selected coating, adhesive and floor. Timing for walking, furniture, rugs and cleaning varies by product and site conditions.

We discuss the applicable workmanship and product warranty terms with your quote. Keep the selected product documentation, including its conditions and exclusions.

All of Greater Sydney, Inner West, Eastern Suburbs, North Shore, Northern Beaches, Sutherland Shire, Hills District and Western Sydney.

Timber is what we do. Jimmy has spent more than 20 years installing, sanding and repairing solid and engineered timber floors in Sydney homes, and also installs laminate and hybrid where it suits the room better.

The species and grade, solid or engineered construction, board width, laying pattern, subfloor preparation, stairs, finishing and access all affect the price. Jimmy measures up on-site and gives you a fixed-price written quote.

Yes, timber is commonly used in kitchens, particularly in open-plan living areas. Spills should be wiped up promptly, and the sink and dishwasher zone deserves extra care. Leaks from appliances are the main risk to watch for.

Timber flooring is generally not recommended in bathrooms, ensuites or rooms with a shower or bath. Regular water, steam and wet area requirements make these rooms unsuitable for most timber products. Most manufacturers do not support timber in wet areas.

It depends on the layout and how often the floor gets wet. A laundry cupboard with a front-loading washer is lower risk than a separate laundry with a floor waste and tub. Check the product's warranty conditions, as some exclude laundries.

No. Engineered timber has a real timber surface and still reacts to water. It should be treated with the same care around spills and leaks as solid timber.

It can be laid either under the cabinetry or up to the kickboards, and each approach has trade-offs. The choice affects movement allowance and future floor replacement. Discuss it with your installer and cabinet maker before installation.

Turn off the water supply, remove standing water and dry the area as quickly as possible. Keep air moving and do not wait to see whether the boards settle. Have the floor assessed if boards swell, cup or stain.

Solid hardwood can usually be sanded and recoated several times, so its life is often limited by board thickness and condition. Water damage, structural problems and repeated heavy sanding shorten its life. Regular maintenance helps it last longer.

It depends largely on the thickness of the wear layer and the product's construction. A thicker wear layer may allow one or more full sands, while a thin one may only allow recoating. Check the manufacturer's specification and warranty.

Hybrid flooring cannot be sanded, so it is usually replaced once the surface wears through. Its expected life is described in each product's warranty and depends on use and installation. Solid timber can generally be refinished several times instead.

It depends on the board thickness, the tongue and groove profile and how the boards are fixed. Each full sand removes a thin layer of timber. For engineered timber, the wear layer thickness sets the limit.

Water is the most common cause of serious damage, followed by grit, a worn-through finish and poor installation. Heavy furniture without pads and rolling chairs can also dent and mark the surface. Prompt repairs limit further damage.

A warranty sets out what the manufacturer covers and under which conditions, not a guaranteed lifespan. Read what it covers and what it excludes, such as water damage or incorrect cleaning. Keep the documentation and maintenance records together.

Herringbone uses rectangular blocks with square ends, laid so each end meets the side of the next block in a staggered zigzag. Chevron uses blocks with angled ends that meet point to point in a continuous V. The difference is easiest to see at the joints.

Neither is automatically better. The effect depends on the pattern direction, block size and the room's proportions. Comparing laid samples in the room and running the pattern along the main sightline usually gives a clearer answer than the pattern name.

Generally not. Chevron blocks have ends cut at an angle for the V pattern, while herringbone blocks have square ends. Choose the pattern before you order, and confirm the product is made for that layout.

Pattern floors usually involve more set-out, cutting and preparation than straight boards, which affects the scope. The actual quote depends on the product, the subfloor, the room layout and details such as borders. An on-site assessment is the reliable way to compare.

Often, provided the slab is suitable and prepared according to the chosen product's instructions. Moisture, flatness and the installation method all need checking on site. Apartments may also have building requirements to follow.

No, a border is optional. It can finish the pattern neatly at the walls and soften the look of cuts, but it changes the appearance and the scope. Decide on it before the set-out is finalised.

Yes. Timber floors can work well in homes with dogs, but they will show some wear over time. Choosing a harder species, a low-sheen finish and a forgiving colour, and protecting wet areas, makes the biggest difference.

Most timber floors in homes with dogs will pick up some fine scratches, mainly in the coating. Trimmed claws, mats at doors and regular cleaning reduce wear. Low-sheen finishes usually make scratches less noticeable.

Both can work. Solid hardwood can generally be sanded and recoated several times over its life, while engineered timber's refinishing options depend on its wear layer. Dent resistance depends mostly on the species rather than the construction.

No timber is scratch-proof. Harder species resist dents better, while the coating and sheen affect how visible surface scratches are. Compare species and finishes together rather than relying on hardness alone.

Hybrid is a timber-look product, not real timber, and its scratch and water performance depends on the specific product. It cannot be sanded and refinished like solid hardwood. Compare the actual products against how your household uses the floor.

Clean up accidents promptly and dry the area, because moisture left sitting can mark the coating and damage the timber. Use suitable mats where accidents are likely. Repeated or long-standing damage may need a board repair or refinishing.

Online photos are useful for describing the look you like, but they are not reliable for matching colour. Photography, editing and screen settings all change how a floor appears. Confirm your choice with a physical sample of a product that is currently available.

It depends on the household. Lighter and mid tones tend to disguise dust and fine scratches better, while dark tones can show dust, pet hair and wear more readily. Check samples on your own floor and consider how the room is used day to day.

Artificial lighting changes how warm or cool a timber colour reads, and warm globes can make some oak tones look more orange or flatter. Always view samples under the lights you actually use in the evening as well as in daylight.

Yes. A matt or satin finish and a glossier finish reflect light differently, so the same stain can look lighter, darker or more textured. Compare colour, sheen and surface texture together rather than colour alone.

Narrowing to three or four samples usually makes comparison easier. Test each in the main rooms the floor will run through, at different times of day. Drop any option that only looks right in one room or one light.

Most timber floors change a little with age and exposure to light. How much depends on the species, stain and coating, so check the manufacturer's information for the specific product. Moving rugs and furniture occasionally can help the floor change more evenly.

Neither is better in every situation. Engineered timber is often chosen for concrete slabs, apartments and prefinished installations, while solid hardwood suits many homes with timber subfloors and on-site finishing. The right choice depends on your subfloor, building requirements and the specific product.

Some engineered boards can be sanded, depending on the wear layer thickness, the board's condition and the manufacturer's advice. Solid timber can usually be refinished while enough usable timber remains. Neither type allows unlimited sanding.

It can be possible, but it usually needs additional preparation and a compatible fixing system. The slab's moisture and flatness must be assessed first. Many concrete projects use engineered timber designed for glue-down or floating installation instead.

No. Engineered timber has a real timber surface and can be damaged by standing water or ongoing moisture, just like solid timber. Wipe up spills promptly and follow the manufacturer's care instructions.

Engineered timber is common in apartments because suitable products can be installed over concrete with an acoustic underlay or adhesive system. Strata by-laws and acoustic requirements apply to the whole floor assembly, so obtain them before choosing a product.

Generally, solid boards move more with changes in humidity because they are timber throughout. Engineered boards are designed to be more dimensionally stable, but both still need correct acclimatisation, subfloor moisture checks and expansion allowances.

Among the five species compared here, Spotted Gum is generally rated the hardest. Blackbutt, Brushbox and Sydney Blue Gum sit in a similar range below it, and European Oak is softer than all of them. Hardness varies between boards, and no timber is scratch-proof.

Neither is better overall; they suit different looks. Blackbutt is paler and calmer, suiting bright and coastal rooms, while Spotted Gum has a wider colour range and wavy grain that helps hide everyday marks. Spotted Gum is generally rated harder, but the coating and care habits matter just as much for wear.

Blackbutt is the usual choice for a pale Australian hardwood, ranging from straw and cream to light golden brown. European Oak can be made very light with whitewashed or tinted finishes. Both tend to warm over time with light exposure, influenced by the finish.

No. European Oak is imported and in Sydney is mostly supplied as engineered flooring with an oak wear layer over a layered core. It is popular for wide boards, herringbone and chevron, and installation over concrete slabs where the product permits it.

Some suppliers offer engineered Blackbutt and Spotted Gum, but ranges are narrower than for solid boards, and engineered Brushbox and Sydney Blue Gum are harder to find. Availability changes, so current grades and widths need confirming before you commit.

Start with the look you want, then consider how hard the floor will work and what subfloor you have. Compare several boards of each species and grade in your own light, beside your fixed finishes. Decide on solid or engineered as a separate step, based on the subfloor and board format.

No. Only the real timber wear layer on top of an engineered board can be sanded, and its thickness varies between products. Some wear layers allow sanding and refinishing, while thin ones may not. Check the manufacturer's specification and have the floor assessed on site.

Start with purchase records, installer paperwork, spare boards or boxes that name the product range, then check the manufacturer's specification. A visible board edge at a vent or threshold can give an indication, but an on-site assessment is the reliable way to judge what remains.

If sanding goes through the wear layer, the core shows through and that board cannot be restored by sanding. It would usually need replacing. This is why the wear layer, board flatness and depth of damage are assessed before any sand is planned.

Often, if the timber itself is undamaged and only the finish is dull or lightly scratched. A recoat adds new finish without sanding into the timber. Suitability depends on the existing coating and the manufacturer's guidance, especially for factory-applied finishes.

No. Hybrid and laminate floors have a printed decorative surface rather than real timber, so there is nothing to sand back. Damaged boards are usually replaced instead. Only solid timber and suitable engineered timber can be sanded and refinished.

Sometimes. It depends on the installation method, whether matching product or spare boards are available, and how the floor has aged. Keep any spare boards from the original installation, as they make a closer match more likely.

No. Hybrid flooring has a printed timber-look design under a protective wear layer, bonded to a rigid composite core. It contains no real timber surface. Solid and engineered timber floors both have a genuine timber surface.

Hybrid flooring is often marketed as water-resistant, but what that covers depends on the specific product, its joints and edges, and how it is installed. No floor should be left with standing water. Check the manufacturer's specification for the range you are considering.

No. Because the surface is a printed layer rather than real timber, a hybrid floor cannot be sanded. Worn or damaged areas are usually fixed by replacing boards. Solid timber, and engineered timber with a suitable wear layer, can be sanded and refinished.

It depends on the product, the installation and how the floor is used and cared for. A real timber floor can often be sanded and refinished when it wears, which can extend its useful life. A hybrid floor relies on its wear layer and board replacement. Compare specific products rather than categories.

It can. The feel and sound underfoot depend on the board, the underlay and the subfloor, not just the product type. Walking on samples of each option, ideally laid over a larger area, is the best way to compare.

Yes. Design Timber Flooring supplies and installs laminate and hybrid flooring as well as solid and engineered timber across Greater Sydney. Jimmy can compare suitable options for your rooms during a free on-site quote.

It can be, with planning. Sand, strong sun and changing humidity all affect timber floors near the coast. Choosing a suitable board and coating, using good entry mats, removing grit often and keeping indoor conditions as steady as practical all help the floor last.

Stop as much sand as possible at the door with mats inside and outside the entries, remove grit regularly with the cleaning method recommended for your floor, and use protective pads under furniture. Pay particular attention to entries and the main walkways.

Salt air mainly affects metal fittings and exterior surfaces. Indoors, the bigger risks to a coated timber floor are sand, water and wet items tracked in from outside. Wipe up water promptly and keep wet towels off the floor.

Strong sunlight can change the colour of timber and coatings over time, and some species and coatings change more than others. Window coverings, moving rugs occasionally and checking samples in your own light before choosing can help manage the effect.

Both are used near the coast. Engineered boards are often chosen for their layered construction, while solid hardwood offers more scope for future sanding. The right choice depends on the subfloor, how the home is used and the specific product, so have the site assessed.

Yes. Design Timber Flooring is a mobile service working across Greater Sydney, including the Northern Beaches, the Sutherland Shire and the Eastern Suburbs. Jimmy provides free on-site quotes.

Yes, provided the flooring manufacturer approves the specific product for use with underfloor heating. The installation must follow both the flooring and heating manufacturers' instructions. If a product's documentation excludes underfloor heating, choose a different product.

Engineered timber is commonly considered for heated floors because its construction is designed for stability. Not every engineered product is approved, so check the specific range. Solid timber is approached with more caution, and some manufacturers do not support it over heating.

Each flooring manufacturer sets its own maximum surface temperature, so there is no single figure for every floor. Ask for the limit in writing for your chosen product. Make sure whoever sets up the heating controls knows it.

Both can be paired with timber when the products are compatible. Hydronic systems are often in a slab and slower to respond, while electric systems are often closer to the surface. The heating and flooring documentation should agree before installation.

Manufacturers usually specify whether the heating should be off, low or at a set point during installation. The system is normally commissioned and tested before the floor is laid. Follow the documented start-up schedule afterwards.

Heat dries timber, so some seasonal movement such as small gaps is possible. Gradual temperature changes and staying within the manufacturer's limits help reduce stress on the boards. An approved product and correct installation are the starting point.

In many Sydney apartment buildings, yes. By-laws often address changes from carpet to hard flooring, and approval conditions may include acoustic requirements. Check your building's by-laws and ask the strata manager before choosing a floor.

The requirement is set by your building's by-laws or approval conditions, so it varies between buildings. Get the requirement in writing, including how it must be tested. Do not rely on a figure from another building or a product brochure.

Ask whether approval is required, which by-laws apply and whether there is an acoustic requirement. Ask what documents or tests are needed and what conditions apply to work hours, lifts and deliveries. Request the answers in writing.

Acoustic performance depends on the whole floor system, including the slab, underlay, fixing method and flooring. An acoustic underlay suited to the product is often part of the solution. Whether the floor complies depends on your building's requirements and any testing they specify.

No. The owners corporation makes the approval decision, and testing requirements are set by the by-laws or approval conditions. An installer can provide product data, underlay documentation and an installation method statement to support your application.

Installing without required approval can lead to disputes with the owners corporation or neighbours, and you may be asked to remedy the work. The consequences depend on the by-laws and NSW strata law. Getting written approval before booking the installation avoids this risk.

It depends on product supply, any acclimatisation the manufacturer requires, the amount of preparation needed and the coating's cure times. Ask for current availability and the supply time of your chosen product as early as possible. If the full scope does not fit, finishing priority rooms first is a common option.

Book early enough to allow for the assessment, any repairs, the sanding and each coat's drying time, plus the wait before furniture and rugs can return. These times vary by coating system and site conditions. Ask for current availability and plan your gathering around the date rooms are fully usable.

Some manufacturers require boards to be stored on site for a period before installation, while others do not or set specific storage conditions. Follow the instructions for the product you choose. This can mean delivery happens before installation, so plan a clear, dry space to store the boards.

Hosting usually needs the floor to have reached full return to service, not just light foot traffic. Furniture and rugs often have longer waits set by the coating manufacturer. Confirm each milestone for each room before setting the date of a gathering.

Often parts of the home can stay in use, but rooms being worked on and coated cannot be used until the coating allows. Whether it works depends on the layout and how rooms connect to kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms. Plan the room sequence at the quote stage.

Prefinished engineered boards do not need on-site sanding and coating, which removes that stage from the programme. Supply time, subfloor preparation and the installation method still apply. Whether it suits your home depends on the subfloor and the look you want.

Neither is better for every home. Glue-down generally feels more solid underfoot and allows longer continuous runs, while floating can suit sites where a bonded installation is not wanted or not permitted. The product's instructions and the subfloor decide which methods are suitable.

No. Each engineered product is designed for particular installation methods, and the manufacturer's instructions state which are allowed. Check the board before deciding on a method.

A floating floor can sound and feel different from a glued floor because it sits on an underlay. The difference depends on the board, underlay, subfloor and building. If acoustics matter, ask for evidence relevant to the proposed assembly.

Sometimes, if the tiles are sound, well bonded and flat enough for the product's requirements. Hollow, cracked or uneven tiles may need repair or removal. An on-site assessment confirms whether tiles are a suitable base.

Both can be used, but the complete assembly must meet the building's strata and acoustic requirements. Check the scheme's rules before choosing a product or method. The proposal should match those requirements.

It can be different rather than harder. A bonded board is usually cut out and replaced, while a floating repair depends on the joint system and the board's position. Keeping spare boards from the same batch helps with either method.

Clear the agreed work areas of furniture, rugs and fragile items, and confirm where materials will be stored. Book parking, lifts and building approvals early, and tell the installer about other trades. Plan for pets, children and rooms being unavailable during the programme.

Usually the work areas need to be fully clear, but who moves the furniture should be agreed in advance. Fragile items, electronics and valuables are usually safer moved by the household. Confirm which rooms must be cleared as part of the scope.

There is no single answer. Acclimatisation depends on the product, its construction and the site conditions, and some products have specific requirements from the manufacturer. Your installer should confirm the storage and timing for the product chosen.

Often yes, for parts of the job, but some rooms will be unavailable. For floors sanded and coated on-site, staying off the floor during coating and ventilation needs may mean being away for part of the programme. Discuss the sequence in advance.

They might. A new floor can sit at a different height from the old one, which can affect doors, thresholds and under-bench appliances. Check during the quote whether door trimming and skirting work are included.

It depends on the product and installation method. Glue-down floors and on-site coatings have their own return-to-use times set by the manufacturer. Confirm light foot traffic, furniture and rugs room by room at handover.

It depends on the floor area, the condition of the boards, any repairs needed, whether gaps are filled or the floor is stained, and how many coats the chosen coating system needs. Each coat has its own drying time set by the manufacturer, so the programme is confirmed after the floor has been assessed on site.

Light foot traffic is allowed once the coating manufacturer's return-to-service time has passed. This varies between coating systems and site conditions, so follow the timing confirmed at handover. Walk in clean socks rather than shoes at first and keep pets off the floor.

Furniture usually needs a longer wait than light foot traffic, because the coating must be ready to take heavier loads. Follow the coating's return-to-service guidance, lift items rather than dragging them, and fit protective pads under the legs before they go back.

A rug covers the coating and can affect how it cures, and some rug backings can mark a fresh finish. Rugs are usually the last item to return. Follow the coating manufacturer's instructions and check that any rug underlay is suitable for a coated timber floor.

Rooms being sanded and coated cannot be used until the coating allows foot traffic. Whether you can stay in the rest of the home depends on the layout and how rooms connect. Discuss the room sequence at the quote stage so access to kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms is planned in advance.

Temperature, humidity and ventilation can all affect drying. The coating manufacturer sets the conditions the product needs, and the programme may need to allow for them. This is one reason return-to-service times are confirmed for your floor rather than quoted as a fixed rule.

There is no fixed schedule. Recoat when the finish looks dull and worn in busy areas but the timber underneath is still protected. The coating manufacturer's maintenance guidance is the main reference for timing.

A recoat lightly abrades the existing finish and applies fresh coats without sanding back to bare timber. A full sand removes the old coating and a thin layer of timber before refinishing. A recoat suits a worn but intact finish.

If wear is limited to the coating, such as dull paths and fine scratches, a recoat is often suitable. Grey or bare patches, deep gouges, water damage or a peeling finish usually need a full sand or repairs. An installer can assess the floor and test adhesion.

An installer can usually assess the existing coating and test whether a new coat will bond. Incompatible products can cause adhesion problems. Testing comes before a recoat for this reason.

Sometimes, but recoating a whole room usually gives a more even sheen than patching part of it. Discuss the options with your installer. The decision depends on the coating and how visible the join would be.

Use doormats at every entry, felt pads under furniture and a cleaner suited to your coating. Wipe up spills promptly and keep pets' claws trimmed. Recoating before the finish wears through also protects the timber.

Timber and many coatings change colour with light exposure. Some species darken and others lighten, so the effect is not always fading. Blinds, awnings and moving rugs and furniture from time to time help the floor age more evenly.

Air-conditioning dries the air, which can make boards shrink, while humid summer days can make them swell. Small, even movement is normal. Keeping indoor conditions reasonably steady helps, and gaps that keep widening, cupping or lifting should be assessed.

Keep a towel or absorbent mat at the door from the pool, wipe up water straight away and don't leave wet towels or swimmers on the floor. Standing water can mark the coating and reach the timber. If boards swell or darken, have them assessed.

Moving rugs and furniture now and then helps the floor change colour more evenly, so you don't get sharp outlines when a rug is moved. Check that rug underlays suit coated timber. On a new coating, wait until the manufacturer says rugs can go down.

Dull or grey traffic lanes, worn finish near doors and benches, and scratches that collect dirt are common signs. A recoat is generally only possible while the coating has not worn through and the existing finish is compatible. An on-site assessment confirms whether a recoat or full sand and polish is needed.

Vacuum with a hard-floor head or use a soft broom regularly, especially near outside doors. Sand scratches the coating with every step, so mats inside and outside each door help a lot. Avoid wet mopping and steam mops, and use the cleaner your coating supplier recommends.

Yes. Solid timber shrinks slightly when the air is dry, so fine, even gaps often appear in Sydney's cooler months and close again when summer humidity returns. Gaps that stay open all year or get wider each winter are worth checking.

Cupping, where board edges sit higher than the middle, usually means the underside of the boards holds more moisture than the top. Common causes are blocked subfloor vents, poor drainage, damp crawl spaces and leaks.

Often they settle noticeably once the moisture source is fixed and the boards dry, though it takes time. Some stay partly cupped and need repair or sanding once moisture readings show the floor has stabilised.

Not seasonal gaps. Filler in gaps that close in summer can get squeezed out or push boards up. Permanent gaps can sometimes be filled or the boards re-laid, at the right time of year and with the right method.

Not until the moisture problem is fixed and the boards have settled. Sanding a cupped floor too early can leave it crowned, with each board higher in the middle, once it dries.

It depends on the cause. Leaks need a plumber, drainage and subfloor ventilation may need a drainage contractor or builder. Jimmy can assess the floor, take moisture readings and repair the boards once the cause is resolved.

Often, yes. Solid hardwood that swells and cups frequently settles once it dries. Boards that stay cracked, cupped or stained black can usually be replaced individually, then the floor sanded to blend. Laminate that has swollen at the joints usually needs replacing.

It depends on how much water there was, how long it sat, the season, ventilation and whether the subfloor got wet. There's no fixed number of days. Moisture readings show when the boards have stabilised and repairs can go ahead.

No. Aiming heaters or heat guns at the boards dries the top much faster than the underside, which can crack and split the timber. Use airflow, fans across the floor and a dehumidifier for slow, even drying.

Usually not, with solid hardwood. Many boards recover as they dry, and pulling them up early can mean replacing more than needed. Floating floors are different, as water under the underlay may mean lifting them to dry what's underneath.

Water reacts with the natural tannins in many hardwoods and can leave dark grey or black stains. These often go deeper than sanding can reach, so the stained boards are usually replaced.

Jimmy can assess the floor and give you a fixed-price written quote that sets out what's damaged and what needs replacing. Check with your insurer what they need from a flooring quote.

Remove grit first with a soft broom, dry microfibre mop or a vacuum with a hard-floor head. Then damp clean only when needed, using a well-wrung mop and a cleaner approved for your floor's finish. The floor should dry quickly rather than stay wet.

Only if the floor and finish manufacturer says it is suitable. Steam combines heat and moisture, which can affect some coatings and get into board edges. If you do not know your coating, ask before using one.

Control grit with mats at external doors, clean regularly and fit felt pads to furniture, replacing them when they wear. Lift furniture instead of dragging it and keep pets' claws trimmed. No timber is scratch-proof, but these habits reduce wear on the coating.

There is no fixed interval. It depends on traffic, care habits and the coating system. A recoat is usually considered when traffic paths look dull but the coating is still intact, and whether it suits your floor depends on the existing finish, which needs an on-site check.

It is safer not to without checking first. Some household polishes, waxes and oils leave residue that can interfere with future recoating or change the sheen. Check the coating manufacturer's instructions or ask before applying any treatment.

Rugs usually come last, after light foot traffic and furniture, because covering a fresh coating can affect how it cures. The timing is set by the coating manufacturer's instructions, so confirm it for your floor at handover.

It depends on the floor's condition. A sound but dull finish may only need a recoat, while worn-through traffic lanes, deep scratches or patchy colour usually call for a full sand and polish. An on-site assessment confirms which option suits the floor and your timeline.

A recoat lightly prepares the existing finish and applies a fresh coat, which only works while the coating has not worn through and is compatible. A full sand and polish takes the floor back to bare timber and applies new coats. The full process usually takes longer and suits floors with deeper wear.

Allow enough time for repairs, sanding, each coat's drying time and the wait before furniture and rugs can return, as set by the coating manufacturer. Work backwards from the photo date and leave some margin for weather. Share the programme with your agent and stylist.

Natural tones with a clear coating that shows the timber's own colour tend to suit a wide range of tastes and furniture. Satin or matt sheens generally show fewer scuffs than high gloss. Strong stains can suit fewer tastes, so test the finish on your own boards first.

A common approach is to complete major painting first, then the floors, with the floor protected for any later touch-ups. The right order depends on the scope and trades involved. Agree the sequence with each trade so neither job damages the other.

Isolated damaged, stained or loose boards can often be repaired or replaced. Replacement boards need to suit the existing species and profile, and the repaired area may still need coating work to blend in. An on-site assessment shows whether a repair is enough.

No. The remaining usable timber, board profile, fixings, previous work and condition need checking. A sound-looking surface does not establish how much timber remains.

No. Local board replacement may be possible where suitable material and access are available. The condition of the surrounding floor and the intended finishing area affect the result.

No. Some stains and dents extend too deeply to remove without taking away excessive timber. Discuss marks that may remain and whether individual boards should be replaced.

The moisture source and floor condition need to be assessed first. Sanding before the problem is resolved can leave further movement or an uneven result.

Ask who will do the work, whether they'll inspect the site before quoting, how they check moisture and the subfloor, which installation method they'll use and why, exactly what the quote includes, and what warranties apply. Then compare written quotes line by line.

Yes. A firm price needs someone to see the existing floor, the subfloor where there's access, doorways, stairs and how the rooms connect. A price from photos alone is a guess that often grows once work starts.

Quotes often include different things. One may cover removal, subfloor preparation, skirting, trims and sanding, while another leaves them out. Compare the scope, not just the total.

Usually two: a product warranty from the manufacturer and a workmanship warranty from the installer. Get both in writing and ask what could void them, such as installation that doesn't follow the manufacturer's instructions.

No. Carpet and underlay need to be removed so the subfloor can be inspected and prepared. Timber flooring needs a sound, flat, suitably prepared base according to the product's instructions.

Lift a corner of carpet in a wardrobe or behind a door and look at what is underneath. Older homes with raised floors often have hardwood boards, while apartments and newer homes are often on a concrete slab. An on-site inspection confirms the condition.

It depends on the condition of the boards. Sound hardwood is often a candidate for sanding and polishing with some boards replaced, while widespread damage or thin boards may make new flooring the better option. An assessment of the actual floor is the reliable way to decide.

It can. Timber and carpet sit at different heights, so door clearances, skirting and transitions to tiled areas should be checked during the assessment. Agree on how these details will be handled before installation.

Often, but check the strata scheme's flooring requirements first. Many buildings have rules about acoustic performance and approvals for hard floors. The proposed product and underlay need to meet those requirements.

Neither suits every home. Solid hardwood is commonly fixed over timber subfloors, while engineered timber is often chosen for slabs and situations where height or stability matters. The subfloor and the product's installation requirements guide the decision.

Often significantly. Moisture, flatness, damaged boards or joists and old adhesive can all change the preparation needed. Some of these conditions are only visible once the existing floor is lifted, so a clear quote explains how they will be handled.

It depends on your project. Supply-only covers the product, while supply and install brings product selection, preparation and installation into one scope. The two cannot be compared directly, so check exactly what each proposal includes.

Quotes often differ because they describe different scopes. One may include removal, preparation, finishing and edges while another leaves them out. Compare the product, installation system, inclusions and exclusions side by side.

Patterns such as herringbone and chevron usually involve more setting out, cutting and handwork than straight boards, which affects the scope of work. The difference depends on the room layout, product and finishing, so it is confirmed after assessment.

Photos help with an initial discussion, but they cannot show subfloor moisture, flatness or concealed damage. An on-site assessment gives a more reliable scope, especially where existing coverings need to be removed.

The exact product and installation system, removal and disposal, subfloor preparation, finishing stages, edge treatments and transitions. It should also list exclusions and explain how newly discovered conditions will be discussed before the scope changes.

It can be. A suitable timber floor is durable and can often be repaired or refinished rather than replaced, which suits properties that see regular tenancy changes. The right choice depends on the existing floor, building rules, expected wear and how quickly the property needs to be ready.

If the existing hardwood boards are sound, sanding and polishing may restore them without a full replacement. Boards with extensive damage, movement or little remaining timber may be better replaced. An on-site assessment establishes which option suits the floor.

In most strata schemes, installing or replacing hard flooring needs approval from the owners corporation. Check the by-laws, get any flooring application documents and confirm the acoustic evidence required before ordering boards or booking installation.

Solid hardwood can usually have damaged boards repaired and the floor sanded and recoated. Engineered timber may be recoated, refinished or have boards replaced, depending on the wear layer. Hybrid and laminate cannot be sanded, so damaged boards are usually replaced. Keeping spare boards helps with matching.

It depends on the work. A sand and polish needs time for each coat and for the coating's return-to-service times before furniture goes back. New installations depend on delivery, preparation and approvals. Agree the programme before advertising the property.

Book a free on-site quote with Design Timber Flooring. Jimmy assesses the existing floor and discusses restore or replace options, then provides a fixed-price written quote once the scope is agreed.

Not automatically. A product marketed for homes may not have the documentation a commercial project requires. The responsible specifier should set the performance requirements, and the selected product, finish and fixing system should be checked against that evidence.

Neither is automatically better. Engineered boards are often prefinished, which can reduce on-site coating stages, while solid hardwood is sanded and coated in place. The choice depends on the brief, the substrate, the programme and the evidence the project requires.

Plans, the intended use of each area, current flooring details, performance requirements from the project team, access constraints and the target handover date. The more of this is available early, the more accurate the proposed scope can be.

The board, adhesive or underlay and substrate must work together as one system. Moisture, flatness and the condition of the slab or subfloor need to be assessed against the manufacturer's installation instructions before the specification is finalised.

Sometimes, but it needs to be agreed for the particular project. Building rules, access, noise restrictions, curing times and other trades all affect whether after-hours or staged work is practical.

The project's responsible specifier or design team sets the requirements, and the selected product's documentation should be checked against them. The installer installs the agreed system in line with the manufacturer's instructions and the project specification.